Material

Primary Fabric Coating fabric such as gabardine, woolen, boiled wool and non-stretch fleece

Lining Broadcloth, viscose lining, acetate lining, cupro, Bemberg lining, silk habotai, satin

Interfacing A Lightweight woven or weft-insertion fusible interfacing

Interfacing B Lightweight knit tricot fusible interfacing

Sleeve Head Fabric Felt or woolen—you can also use primary fabric; this piece will not be visible in the final garment so color matching is not necessary

Other Materials

• Twelve (12) 1” (25 mm) buttons
• Two (2) 13/16” (21 mm) buttons for welt pockets
• A set of very thin shoulder pads for set-in sleeves
• 16″ (41 cm) of 3/8” or 1/2” (1 cm or 1.25 cm)-wide straight fusible stay tape (or cut your own using lightweight woven fusible interfacing on the straight grain)
• A set of very thin shoulder pads for set-in sleeves
• For the belt: One (1) buckle with a center bar and a prong, measuring 2” (50 mm) in internal width
• For the belt: Seven (7) metal eyelets, measuring 5/32” (4 mm) in internal width, with a corresponding installation tool and an awl

Optional Materials

• Fray Check or equivalent (fabric treatments designed to prevent fraying and unraveling of fabric edge)
• Two (2) 13/16” (21 mm) buttons for epaulettes
• One (1) 13/16” (21 mm) buttons for gun flap
• Two (2) buckles with a center bar and a prong, measuring 1 1/4” (32 mm) in internal width for sleeve bands
• Six (6) metal eyelets, measuring 5/32” (4 mm) in internal width, with a corresponding installation tool and an awl for sleeve bands

Fabric Requirements

Most natural fibers shrink in the wash; be sure to have enough fabric. The requirements below assume that the fabric is already pre-shrunk.